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In the early 20th century, traditional clothing began to give way to styles that combined elements of Asian and Western dress. For example, in the 1920s Chinese women began wearing the qi pao (or in Cantonese, the cheongsam), a new slim dress with a high collar and a slit skirt that combined Chinese, Manchu, and Western styles. After a Communist government led by Mao Zedong took control in China in 1949, Chinese people increasingly had to wear the so-called Mao suit, a jacket and trousers of heavy, dark blue cotton. The outfit, which resembled a uniform, was worn by Mao. After Mao died in 1976, the Chinese began again to choose their own styles of dress, and interest revived in the traditional clothing of China's many ethnic minorities.
In Japan and Korea, Western-style clothing became widespread for both men and women in the 20th century, but by the end of the century interest in traditional clothing had returned. While many people in both countries wear Western-style clothing every day, they may wear traditional clothing for special occasions and holidays.
Clothing styles were well established in India by 3000 BC. Indian clothing styles were based on large rectangles of cloth wrapped around the body. The classic Indian clothing styles include the sari for women and the dhoti for men. The sari, a long piece of fabric, is made of cotton or silk, often elaborately decorated with dyed, woven, or embroidered patterns. It is wrapped around the body and worn with a short, fitted bodice. There are many styles of wrapping saris, and various styles are associated with different regions of India. In Pakistan, which was once part of India, women wear very full-cut trousers under, or in place of, the wrapped sari. The dhoti is also a rectangular cloth that can be wrapped around the legs to form a skirt or wrapped and brought up between the legs to form loose pants.
Wrapped and tied cloth rectangles called sarongs are typical apparel for men and women in Southeast Asia, including Malaysia, Thailand, and Indonesia. Sarongs can be wrapped to form a full-length garment or to form a skirt that is worn with a fitted jacket or top.
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Tailored clothing that fits the body closely reached India and other parts of southern Asia with the expansion of the Islamic religion to the region, beginning in about the 14th century. Islamic influence resulted in the introduction of garments based on Persian clothing, such as trousers and fitted coats, as well as veils for women and turbans for men. As in other parts of the world, by the 20th century Western-style clothing had greatly influenced everyday clothing styles in India and Southeast Asia.
DEurope After the fall of Rome in the 5th century, a T-shaped tunic remained the basic garment for European men and women until about 1300. A cloak or cape worn over this tunic provided warmth. Men also wore untailored drawstring trousers called braies.
In medieval society a military, landowning aristocracy dominated the vast majority of the people, who worked as agricultural laborers. Rule by a military elite meant that armor was the most important form of dress for medieval lords and the men who served them. Advances in military technology stimulated a demand for new styles of armor. Some medieval armor was soft-that is, it was made either of quilted fabric or leather. Most armor, however, was chain mail, made of interlocked metal rings.
During the 14th and 15th centuries chain mail armor was gradually replaced by plate armor, made of large pieces of metal. Arrows shot from a crossbow could pierce chain mail; a complete suit of plate armor provided greater protection. The new style of armor covered the limbs and torso, and a helmet and a moveable visor protected the head and face. To protect his metal armor from rain or the heat of the sun, a knight might wear an outer garment of cloth or leather called a surcoat.
After the new style of armor became standard, men adopted a short upper garment, called a doublet, which barely reached to the thighs and sometimes only to the waist. Initially worn under the armor, it evolved into a new kind of jacket for men. It was worn with tights and long, pointed shoes. Once this costume became general, clothing for European men and women began to diverge dramatically. For the first time, the long robe or dress became associated with femininity.
As European clothing styles became more various, tailors became more skillful at cutting and sewing clothing. They learned, for example, to set sleeves with curved tops into curved armholes. Curved seams provided greater ease of movement and permitted clothing to fit more closely to the body. Aristocratic women began wearing dresses with high waistlines, long trains, and low necklines. The clergy disapproved of these new styles, calling them indecent. Fashionable colors among the upper classes included red, purple, and black. Most peasants wore undyed clothing in the natural shades of the cloth, such as beige, brown, and gray. Peasant men wore trousers, vests, and shirts; peasant women wore skirts and looser blouses.
Fashion, distinct from everyday clothing, had begun to emerge in Europe by the 14th century, although it was still restricted to small groups of people, mostly at royal courts. By the 15th century, fashion had begun to spread, first to Italy. There, fashion was closely associated with the rise of cities dominated by the merchants and manufacturers who were prosperous enough to purchase clothing for style's sake. Because this kind of economic system that supported a wealthy merchant and manufacturing class first developed in the West, fashion was for many centuries primarily a Western phenomenon. Within Europe, some countries-England, for example-developed a modern industrial economy more rapidly than others. Already by the 18th century, many working-class people in England wore clothing that resembled fashionable styles. In contrast, much of Eastern Europe retained traditional styles until the 20th century, when Western-style clothing became predominant. Some traditional clothing of Eastern Europe came under the influence of Turkish styles and differed from that of Western Europe. The Ottoman (Turkish) Empire ruled much of the Balkan Peninsula in Eastern Europe, starting in the 15th century.
EThe Americas A variety of peoples with different styles of clothing inhabited North, Central, and South America before Europeans arrived beginning in the late 1400s. In the northern Arctic regions, the Inuit (Eskimos) and Aleut peoples wore fur parkas and trousers. The clothing of nomadic hunting societies farther south was made of animal skins. Men in some societies wore little more than a loincloth and leather leggings. Both men and women wore one-piece robes, generally made of animal skin, with an opening for the head. Decoration on articles of clothing and jewelry might consist of featherwork and quillwork (decoration made with porcupine quills); body paint was also used. After the Europeans introduced colored glass beads to the Americas, these, too, were applied to jewelry and to moccasins (soft slippers) and other apparel of animal hides.
After Spanish conquerors introduced sheep to the Americas in the 16th century, the indigenous peoples of the American Southwest became the first of the native cultures to weave sheep's wool into cloth. Earlier, the peoples of this region and elsewhere had made cloth from plant fibers and bark. The Native Americans also adopted vests, woven cloaks, and other items of European clothing.
The indigenous peoples of Central and South America had an elaborate clothing culture before European conquest in the 16th century. Clothing was woven from cotton and other fibers, such as palm leaves, throughout the Aztec, Maya, and Inca empires. Typical garments worn in preconquest Central America included the loincloth, hip-cloth (which was longer than a loincloth), tunic, and cape for men, and the wrapped skirt, untailored blouse, and poncho (a blanketlike cloak, with a hole for the head) for women. Men also wore quilted armor and ceremonial warrior costumes. Jewelry, headdresses, and featherwork were important symbols of status.
After the European colonization, European clothing replaced, augmented, and modified indigenous styles. The Spanish mantilla (a lightweight lace or silk scarf worn over the head and shoulders), long gathered skirt, and tailored blouse became part of women's dress. The sombrero (a large straw or felt hat with a wide brim and a high crown), jacket, and trousers became part of men's attire. Spain's trans-Pacific trade between its colonies in Acapulco, Mexico, and Manila, Philippines, introduced some Chinese and Philippine motifs and embroidery styles into Mexican and Central American women's clothing. When the French navy visited Guatemala in the 19th century, a particular style of straight-legged, navy blue sailors' trousers became incorporated into local dress. By the late 20th century, commercially woven cloth and synthetic dyes had largely replaced handwoven cloth and vegetable dyes. Nevertheless, many ancient design motifs with symbolic significance, such as serpents and rainbows, still persist.
Similar changes occurred in the Andes Mountains of South America when the Spanish conquered the Inca Empire in the early 16th century. Although European styles replaced most traditional Inca clothing, some ancient Andean woven textiles have survived and are now in museum collections. These textiles were primarily made of cotton, although llama, alpaca, and vicuña wools were also used. Weaving materials were often colored with mineral and vegetable dyes. Along with patterns and images woven into the fabric, painting, stamping, embroidering, and appliqué were used to create textile designs. Despite European influence, traditional weaving remains an important activity among women of indigenous Andean societies today. Weaving and clothing are still used to communicate regional identity and marital status. In addition, many Andean women now produce hand-knitted sweaters and other garments for commercial markets.
VNEW DIRECTIONS After the Industrial Revolution began in Europe in the 18th century, it became increasingly possible to produce cloth and clothing quickly and inexpensively. Fashionable clothing styles spread rapidly from the upper classes to the middle and working classes in the West. As communication improved, styles also spread to members of the elite classes in other parts of the world. Mass production of clothing meant that the traditional clothing styles of Africa, Asia, and the Americas were largely replaced by everyday European styles.
As national economies grow increasingly international, clothing styles have become correspondingly global. Young people in Johannesburg and Jakarta, Boston and Buenos Aires all tend to wear the same kind of clothing. However, different cultures have modified these originally European styles in accordance with local values and lifestyles. In particular, religious beliefs have influenced the clothing that women wear in public. Thus, a woman in Iran may wear blue jeans and a T-shirt at home, but cover them up with an enveloping robe called a chador when she goes outside. In addition, many people enjoy wearing their traditional clothing on holidays and other special occasions for reasons of national or ethnic pride.
Fashion change includes both short-term fluctuations in style and longer-term trends. Two trends seen in the 20th century seem likely to continue in the future. The first of these is the blurring of gender boundaries. Fashionable clothing of the 19th century made very sharp distinctions between men's and women's clothing in color, shape, fabric, and decoration. Gradually these distinctions broke down, especially when women claimed masculine items of clothing. Trousers and tailored suits are two notable examples of men's styles now worn regularly by both men and women.
Today's standard wardrobe includes a large number of garments that are essentially ungendered (neither male nor female), including T-shirts, jeans, casual jackets, and many kinds of special sports clothing, such as running shorts and sweat suits. At the same time, true unisex clothing (clothing with no distinction between genders) is very rare and is likely to remain so. Men's and women's tailored business suits, for example, can be regarded as simply two versions of the same basic garment, but they are generally very different in shape and in details, such as on which side the buttons are placed. Even outwardly ungendered items, such as jeans, are usually made in slightly different versions for men and women. An important function of clothing is to serve as a signifier of social identity, including gender, and that is likely to remain true.
A second continuing long-term fashion trend is the increasing importance of casual and sports attire in the overall wardrobe of both men and women. Tailored suits as business attire are now rapidly giving way to more casual dress.
Innovations in textiles and clothing construction often appear first in specialized sports clothing and then rapidly spread to everyday dress. Just as clothing sends signals about gender, it carries messages about situations and occasions; special formal attire of some sort will continue to be a part of fashion for the foreseeable future. However, such clothing is likely to become even more occasion-specific than it is today, and the trend toward ever more casual everyday dress is expected to continue.

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