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HISTORY OF CLOTHING AROUND THE WORLD
In addition to factors such as climate and natural resources, historical changes in religion and culture also exert an influence on clothing. For example, most people of ancient Egypt wore few clothes because of the hot climate. After the introduction of the Islamic religion, with its emphasis on physical modesty, in the 7th century AD, Egyptians began to wear more concealing clothing, which included veils for women.
Political history also affects clothing styles. After conquering a region, conquerors usually introduce their own type of clothing. From about 1500 on, European colonial expansion brought European clothing to other continents.
The following sections summarize the history of clothing in different parts of the world.
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The Ancient Western World The ancient western world consisted of civilizations that developed on lands surrounding the Mediterranean Sea. It encompassed ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia, Crete, Greece, and Rome.
Egypt "She who was rich in fine linen, who loved clothes, lies in the cast-off garment of yesterday." So begins an ancient Egyptian funeral lament. Although ancient Egyptians usually wore few clothes, clothing was important in their culture. A papyrus drawing from a collection of religious texts known as the Book of the Dead depicts Egyptians growing flax, a plant that yields fiber for linen. A three-dimensional wooden model of a weaving workshop that was found in an ancient Egyptian tomb shows workers spinning linen thread and weaving it into cloth. Archaeologists have also retrieved garments from tombs along the Nile River valley.
A dress from about 3000 BC, excavated in AD 1912, was rediscovered in 1977 among a bunch of dirty linen rags in a museum in London, England. It later went on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum, also in London. Perhaps the world's oldest fully preserved garment, this dress consists of a skirt attached to a pleated bodice (fitted upper part) with a V-shaped neckline and long sleeves. Two other ancient Egyptian dresses survive from about 2400 BC. Surviving garments worn by Egyptian men include shirts, tunics, and loincloths. These garments suggest that ancient Egyptian art depicting Egyptian dress exaggerated the extent to which clothing revealed the body.
The ancient Egyptians did expose much of the body, however, and children, slaves, and entertainers often wore no clothes at all. The Egyptians fashioned most articles of clothing out of lightweight linen rectangles. Because the basic items of clothing were simple, the quality of the fabric and the use of accessories typically indicated the social status of the wearer. Finely pleated fabrics were highly valued.
The basic attire for ancient Egyptian workers was a simple loincloth. Men of the upper class wore a wrapped skirt that somewhat resembled a kilt over the loincloth. This skirt was called a shenti. By 2800 BC the shenti was knee length; by the 1700s BC some shentis fell to the ankle. By 1100 BC men wore a close-fitting shenti and a fuller long one. During the reign of King Tutankhamen (1361-1352 BC), the shenti had a triangular projection in front. Cloaks or capes were draped over the shoulder. For shoes, the Egyptians wore sandals of leather or rush (a stiff marsh plant) fastened with a thong and a strap across the instep.
Women wore a long sheath dress called a kalasiris, which extended to the ankles and was held in place by one or two straps over the shoulders. Later, some of these dresses had sleeves sewn in. The kalasiris followed the outline of the body, but it was probably not as form-fitting and sheer as represented in art. From about 1600 to about 1000 BC Egyptian women also wore a loose, sleeveless cloak, called a haik, over the kalasiris. The Egyptians favored white for most clothing, but by the 15th century BC they used colors, including yellow, red, blue, and green. Woven patterns and embroidery added borders and designs to clothing.
Both men and women wore jewelry and headgear in ancient Egypt. Gold jewelry, set with carnelian and turquoise, included necklaces, pectorals (pendants worn on the chest), amulets (charms against evil), earrings, bracelets, and wide, jeweled collars. Headgear was rich and varied. Women of elite classes often wore gold headbands that wrapped across the forehead and around the head. The crown was a royal symbol of authority, and several different types of crowns represented authority over different regions.
Many ancient Egyptian men and women shaved their heads and wore wigs. Women painted their lips and, using a reddish-orange dye prepared from the leaves of the henna plant, colored their fingernails. Men and women also painted their eyelids with kohl, a preparation made from soot or a substance called antimony. Kohl was similar to the eyeliner used by women today.
Mesopotamia At the same time that Egyptian civilization flourished along the Nile River valley, civilization thrived in Mesopotamia between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, in what is now Iraq. Mesopotamian culture endured through several changes in ruling ethnic groups. The earliest people to govern Mesopotamia, from about 3500 to 2500 BC, were Sumerians. Babylonian rule began in about 2000 BC, followed by Assyrian domination starting in about 1000 BC. In 539 BC the Persians conquered Mesopotamia, led by Cyrus the Great.
Whereas the Egyptians generally wore lightweight linen clothes, the Sumerians and their successors favored heavier woolen garments. Wool was produced in Mesopotamia for export as well as for domestic use. The traditional Mesopotamian garment was a woolen skirt; over time, a T-shaped tunic (loose-fitting garment extending to the knees) replaced it. Shawls were draped around the upper torso. Embroidery and fringe generally ornamented Mesopotamian tunics and shawls, and dyes gave clothing a variety of colors. Priests determined which colors were suitable for particular occasions. Men wore beards, and some Mesopotamian sculptures show the men in turbanlike hats.
Veils were worn in Mesopotamia, and they still constitute an important component of dress for women in many areas of the Middle East. Assyrian legal codes specified that only free, married women could wear veils; these codes specifically prohibited slaves and prostitutes from wearing them. The association of veiling and status persisted in Middle Eastern cultures; in early-20th-century Egypt and Arabia, veils were a sign of high social status and feminine modesty. However, the significance of veiling varied according to time and place. For example, in mid-20th century Iran, members of the urban elite class began to adopt Western-style clothing and to associate veiling with the less-educated classes.
Persia The Persians, based in what is now Iran, ruled an empire in the 6th century BC that included most of the Middle East and Egypt. They introduced two garments to the history of clothing: trousers and seamed fitted coats, both probably first made from animal skins. These tailored garments differed significantly from the woven rectangles of cloth generally worn in the Mediterranean region, and they served to protect people from cold weather. They were adopted for that purpose by peoples of Central Asia and northern Europe. People who rode horses valued trousers for use when astride, and in that capacity trousers spread to China and India, as well as to the Celtic peoples of northern Europe.
It is worth noting that throughout most of history trousers have not been associated with men. In China, both men and women, especially those who worked the land, wore trousers. In the Ottoman Empire (based in what is now Turkey), women wore trousers. Only in European cultures did trousers become associated with men.
Crete Minoan civilization flourished on the island of Crete in the Mediterranean Sea from about 3000 BC until about 1200 BC, when it was devastated by earthquakes and conquered by people from the Greek mainland. Minoan art shows women and men athletes wearing little more than a loincloth while performing dangerous stunts such as leaping over bulls. Minoan wall paintings also depict goddesses and priestesses wearing what was probably the dress of upper-class women, consisting of a short-sleeved, laced bodice cut to expose the breasts; a long, bell-shaped skirt; and a tight sash around the waist. This style has intrigued historians because it differs so dramatically from typical Mediterranean clothing worn in ancient Egypt and Greece.
Ancient Greece is famous for its philosophy, art, literature, and politics. As a result, classical Greek style in dress has often been revived when later societies wished to evoke some revered aspect of ancient Greek civilization, such as democratic government. A Greek style in dress became fashionable in France shortly after the French Revolution (1789-1799), because the style was thought to express the democratic ideals for which that revolution was fought. Clothing reformers later in the 19th century admired ancient Grecian dress because they thought it represented timeless beauty, the opposite of complicated and rapidly changing fashions of their time.
Ancient Greek clothing consisted of unsewn lengths of linen or wool fabric, generally rectangular and secured with a fibula (ornamented clasp or pin) and a sash. Typical of such garments were the peplos, a loose robe worn by women; the chlamys, a cloak worn by men; and the chiton, a tunic worn by both men and women. Men's chitons hung to the knees, whereas women's chitons fell to their ankles. The basic outer garment during winter was the himation, a larger cloak worn over the peplos or chlamys.
Women dressed modestly in ancient Greece, and in many areas they wore a veil whenever they left the house. By contrast, male nudity received religious sanction, and naked male athletes participated in ritualized athletic competitions such as the Olympian Games. Although ancient Egyptians had associated nakedness with lower status-that of children and slaves-in classical Greece male nakedness represented goodness and beauty.
The clothing of ancient Rome, like that of ancient Greece, is well known from art, literature, and archaeology. Aspects of Roman clothing also have had an enormous appeal to the Western imagination.
Probably the most significant item in the ancient Roman wardrobe was the toga, a one-piece woolen garment that draped loosely around the shoulders and down the body. Historians believe that the toga was originally worn by all Romans, and that it was worn without undergarments. By the 2nd century BC, however, it was worn over a tunic, and the tunic became the basic item of dress for both men and women. Only men who were citizens of Rome wore the toga. Women wore an outer garment known as a stola, which was similar to the Greek chiton.
Women, slaves, foreigners, and others who were not citizens of ancient Rome were forbidden from wearing the toga. By the same token, Roman citizens were required to wear the toga when conducting official business. Over time, the toga evolved from a national to a ceremonial costume. Different types of togas indicated age, profession, and social rank. The toga of adult citizens, the toga virilis, was made of plain white wool and worn by men over 14 years of age. A woman convicted of adultery might be forced to wear a toga as a badge of shame and a symbol of the loss of her female identity. Girls and boys under the age of puberty sometimes wore a special kind of toga with a reddish-purple band on the lower edge, called the toga praetexta. This toga was also worn by magistrates and high priests as an indication of their status. The toga candita, an especially whitened toga, was worn by political candidates. Prostitutes wore the toga muliebris, rather than the tunics worn by most women. The toga pulla was dark-colored and worn for mourning, while the toga purpurea, of purple-dyed wool, was worn in times of triumph and by the Roman emperor.
Togas could be wrapped in different ways, and they became larger and more voluminous over the centuries. Some innovations were purely fashionable. Because it was not easy to wear a toga without tripping over it or trailing drapery, some variations in wrapping served a practical function. Other styles were required, for instance covering the head during ceremonies. Roman writer Seneca criticized men who wore their togas too loosely or carelessly. He also criticized men who wore what were considered feminine or outrageous styles, including togas that were almost transparent.
The ancient Romans were aware that their clothing differed from that of other peoples. In particular, they noted the long trousers worn by people they considered barbarians from the north, including the Germanic Franks and Goths. The figures depicted on ancient Roman armored breastplates often include barbarian warriors in shirts and trousers. The Romans would have been horrified to learn that fitted, sewn clothing replaced their draped garments.
Roman clothing took on symbolic meaning for later generations. Roman armor, particularly the cuirass (breastplate), has symbolized imperial power. In Europe during the Renaissance (15th and 16th centuries), painters and sculptors sometimes depicted rulers wearing pseudo-Roman military attire, including the cuirass, military cloak, and sandals. Later, during the French Revolution, an effort was made to dress officials in uniforms based on the Roman toga, to symbolize the importance of citizenship to a republic. The 18th-century liberty cap, a brimless, limp cap fitting snugly around the head, was based on a bonnet worn by freed slaves in ancient Rome. The modern Western bride has also inherited elements from ancient Roman wedding attire, such as the bridal veil and the wedding ring.
While the clothing of ancient Greece and Rome has long been familiar to Europeans, scholars have studied the clothing of Africa only for the last 200 years or so. Because the African continent is vast and contains a variety of different environments and societies, the people of Africa dress in many types and styles of clothing, with some basic similarities appearing in the clothing of each region.Please feel free to contact us for ladies wholesale blouse prices from the expert of blouse manufacturer in Turkey.
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